October 29, 2021

Floating shelf install

Posted in: News

We get tons of questions about installing floating shelves, so I’ve been wanting to make a quick and easy guide for a while.  This week as I was installing some shelf samples in the showroom, I thought it would be a great chance to take some pictures of how I approach floating shelves..   While this isn’t meant to be a comprehensive guide, it should help explain the process and provide some guidance.  


Step 1

Lay out locations of rods.   You’ll need to make sure the rods are embedded into studs.   In this case, I used two 12” long pieces of ½” diameter allthread for my 3’ long shelf.  My general rule of thumb is to use two rods for shelves up to 3’ long, three rods for shelves 3’-6’ long and four rods for shelves 6’-8’ long.  


Step 2

Drill holes in the wall for the rods.  I used a 9/16” diameter auger bit and drilled 4” deep — you want to go pretty much all the way through the stud but no deeper.




Step 3.

Drill the rod holes in the back of the shelf.  I drilled 9/16” holes and made sure I went about ½” deeper than the distance that the rods stick out from the face of the wall.  My rule of thumb is you want the rods embedded about two thirds to three quarters of the depth of the shelf.  This is a 12” shelf, so I will have about 8” of rod embedded in the floating shelf.   One quick tip:  Note the level clamped to the shelf board.  I’m using this not as a level but as a straightedge to help me sight the drill bit.  You can guage if you are straight side to side as well as if you’re straight up and down.  This trick makes drilling a perfectly aligned deep hole in the edge of a board or beam super easy.




Step 4.  

Dry fit the whole assembly to make sure the holes line up and the rods aren’t too long.




Step 5.

Glue the rods into the back of the shelf.  I used PL3 – a high strength construction adhesive.  You want to make sure there are no voids once the rods are in — you should have some adhesive squeeze out of the hole as you seat the rods all the way in.    Use gloves when working with glue (I didn’t and my hands were discolored for a couple of days…)




Step 6.  

Now inject your adhesive into the holes in the studs.





Step 7.

Install the shelf with rods into the wall holes, checking for level.




Step 8.

Use a temporary prop if necessary to lift one end or the front edge of the shelf to make it level.  Remove prop after adhesive sets up fully.



So there you go — a quick and dirty run down of the steps involved in installing a floating shelf. 


One of the questions we get often is “How do you install a beam mantel?”  When I installed one of our mantels made from a reclaimed hand hewn barn beam for my mother recently I thought it would be a great chance to take some photos and try to write up a little guide for how I like to install them.


Locating the holes for the mounting rods.

I used 3/4″ diameter all thread which I picked up from the local home improvement store in 12″ lengths which were perfect for this mantel.    




Hammer drilling the holes for the rods.  

I drilled a 7/8″ diameter hole 4″ deep into the brick, then cleaned out all the dust and put anchor bolt epoxy in the holes.  This can be messy so I taped a bag under the drill to catch most of the dust.



Checking the rods for level  

Notice I have the rods supported temporarily so they stay level for the 5 minutes or so it takes for the epoxy to set.  I used anchor bolt epoxy which is a two part epoxy specifically designed for attaching structural steel components to masonry.  It requires a caulk gun to dispense.  It’s a bit messy and you want to over fill the holes a little, so be sure to protect the area around the holes as well as the area under the holes from any excess.



Layout the holes in the mantel.   

Measure twice, drill once.



Drilling the holes in the back of the mantel.  

Notice that I have clamped a straightedge to the top of the mantel.  I can sight from above to make sure my auger bit is running parallel to the straightedge and I periodically stop the drill and bend over to look from the side to make sure the bit is going in parallel to that top face of the mantel.  I’ve accurately drilled holes 8′ deep into the end of beams this way — works every time!  BTW – I used a 7/8″ auger bit for this operation.



Construction adhesive for the mantel holes

Any high quality construction adhesive works for this.  You don’t want to use wood glue or polyurethane glue or epoxy as those do not have any “give” and as the beam shrinks and swells seasonally the glue will not move with it and the glue bond will be broken.  Construction adhesive is designed to have a little elasticity so that it can accommodate the seasonal movements of wood without failure.



Putting the construction adhesive in the mantel holes.    

I filled the holes about halfway full then slid the mantel onto the rods.  (You may want to test the accuracy of everything by dry fitting the mantel onto the rods without glue first!)


Fine tuning everything

You can see the temporary props I have under the beam mantel to help hold it level while the construction adhesive dries.  Move quickly during this step – the glue starts to harden after a few minutes.  Once the glue is dry you can remove the props and you’re all done!


And that’s all there is to it.  As always if you have any questions, please give us a call or shoot us an email.   We’ll be glad to help any way we can!

So you’ve decided you want to add an accent wall of reclaimed wood wall planks to your space.  You know where you want the wood to go and maybe even what color you want.  But how much do you need?

If you’re like me, at one time or another you’ve confidently began helping your kid with a math problem only to realize you had no idea how to solve for “x”.   If that’s the same feeling you have when faced with calculating how many square feet of wall planks you need, you are not alone.  I thought I’d take a shot at trying to explain the basics in case you need a refresher course on calculating areas.

For simple accent walls (rectangles) the easiest way is to measure the width and the height and multiply the two together.  To keep it from getting too confusing, I like to measure in inches (just round up to the next inch rather than deal with the fractions – that type of accuracy isn’t needed for this).  Let’s say your wall is 167″ wide and 107″ tall.  167 x 107 = 17,869.  Now that’s square inches.  Divide that by 144 and you have how many square feet of reclaimed barn wood you need.  17,869/144 = 124.09 sqft.  Super easy.

Now lets say this wall has a door and a window in it.  Measure the height and width of those openings in inches, multiply the two together and subtract from the total.  Let’s say the door is 36″ x 82″ and the window is 32″ x 60″.

Door:  36 x 82 = 2952 square inches.   Divide by 144 to convert to square feet = 20.5 square feet in your door opening

Window:  32 x 60 = 1920 square inches.  Divide by 144 to convert to square feet = 13.33 square feet in your window opening.

Take the wall total (124.09) and subtract the openings (20.5 and 13.33) and you get 90.26 square feet.

Now we’re on the home stretch.  We recommend getting an extra 10% for waste, so to figure how much you need including that extra for waste, multiply your wall’s square feet times 1.1.    (90.26 x 1.1 = 99.28 square feet including waste).

Since our reclaimed accent wall planks come in packs of 20 sqft, 5 packs will be just about perfect for this project.

Of course you can always give us a call with your dimensions and we’ll be glad to do the math for you!

January 25, 2019

Jim Beam Boards

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Circle sawn 2x boards reclaimed from Jim Beam warehouse in Kentucky

January 4, 2019

Accent Walls

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Stunning accent wall by our friends Lauren and Jake Willcox using a mix of our brown and gray planks!

Ready for your own accent wall? Check out our online webstore where our brown barnwood is currently on sale for 20% off. Or mix and match our paneling options to create your own unique accent wall. @ Georgia Reclaimed



January 4, 2019

Barn wood Door

Posted in: News

Check out this gorgeous barn door our friends Lauren and Jake Willcox built using our barnwood! Come visit us today and let us help you plan out your reclaimed wood projects. @ Georgia Reclaimed

September 28, 2018

Red Barnwood Paneling

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Red Barnwood Paneling now available at Georgia Reclaimed!

August 29, 2018

White Wash Barnwood Paneling

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Check out this accent wall featuring our white washed barnwood paneling over at @atlantadopplerstudios !


July 10, 2018

WhiteWash Barnwood Paneling

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White Wash Barnwood Paneling now available!

Perfect for rooms where you want the awesome texture of reclaimed wood but don’t want to darken the space up too much, our WhiteWash Barnwood Paneling is made from real reclaimed barn siding and features a light wash of antique white milk paint allowing all of the character of the wood to show through.  Whitewash also works well as highlight planks mixed into a wall of another Barnwood color.

Our Barnwood Paneling is milled specifically for accent walls, ceilings and other applications where you would like the look of real, authentic barnwood in an easy to install form. We make our Barnwood Paneling at our mill in Monroe, Georgia from wood reclaimed from houses, barns, and mills of America’s Heartland. Each plank is a piece of our collective history and we are proud to offer it to you for the next chapter of its story.

June 6, 2018

Quarter Board Paneling- Accent Walls

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Here’s a repost of an accent wall using our Quarter Boards which are our most affordable barn wood paneling. Looking great!